Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Wandering Minds and Men, and Wacky Tabaski

Before we get into today's main events, I have a few quick notes.



  • Probably won't do a full Christmas blog entry. I went to a different city in southern Senegal and stayed at a house with a full kitchen. Ten other volunteers were there and we spent four days cooking amazing food (all of it from scratch, of course), and relaxing and watching movies. I may write a blog entry at some point about transportation in this country though, because it's not exactly luxurious, so keep your eyes peeled for that.
  • People were asking me for more direction on what kind of food I would enjoy. I put a list up as a permanent feature and can edit it as I please. It's all stuff that could eat all day, so don't worry if you're duplicating what someone else has already sent.
  • My senior journalism project was published on the BU website as part of a student showcase. If you're interested in seeing what I learned to do in college, check out the link on the right above my list.

Wandering Minds and Men

A couple weeks ago I was walking back to my hut having just pulled a couple buckets of water, when a man that I didn't recognize crossed my path. The first thing that struck me as strange about the man was that he didn't greet me. Senegalese people, especially village people, greet evreybody, so when he stared straight ahead and continued on his course I grew slightly suspicious. The next thing to strike me as strange about the man was that he was completely naked.

A few months ago, I may have dropped the buckets of water in shock and told the story for days, but I'm growing accustomed to seeing things I find odd and I simply can't get hung up on them because it happens too often. And nobody seemed to be making a big deal out of it, so I just continued on to my hut to take a bucket shower and didn't really think about it for the rest of the day.

Later that night, though, one of my friends in the village saw me and said, "Did you see that crazy guy in the village today? He was completely naked!!! Everyone was afraid and stayed in their compounds, peeking through the fence. Except for one woman who tried to give him clothes but he freaked out and refused!"


I am reminded from time to time that Africa isn't an entirely different world. No matter where you are, a man walking naked down the road is weird.


Wacky Tabaski

Tabaski is the most important holiday in the Muslim calendar, falling on a different day every year because it's dictated by the lunar calendar. This year we celebrated on December 21st.

The day began as normal with our normal porridge and wearing our normal clothes, but then the fun began.

At about 10:00 a.m. the villagers all put on their nicest Grand Boubous and went to the field to pray (our mosque isn't big enough to fit everyone). I stayed behind in the compound playing with the kids and helping my sisters cook the biggest and best meal I've had so far.

When the adults came back from praying I changed into my Grand Boubou too and at about 12:30 we ate lunch.

First dish: findo (a grain) served with a tomato-based sauce that had vermicelli, onions, eggplant, and cabbage. Then fish balls, which have the same basic characteristics of a meatball, except, of course, for the meat.

Second dish: Millet served with large slices of egg-plant on top and some sort of a bird. It wasn't a chicken, but some sort of poultry they had managed to catch in the wild, maybe Guinea Fowl? I never saw it alive.

Third dish: Rice with a peanut sauce and beef. The whole village got together and killed a cow, splitting the cost and the meat. My family got two kilos.

There were more dishes that I didn't eat. My dad warned me that the stomach can handle three dishes without incident, but four dishes would be too much to bear. I had no reason to doubt him and no desire to test him.

After lunch my dad, brother, and I went to a different family's house where some other Dunfaxas live and spent a couple hours just kickin it there. We went back to the house about 3:30 or so where things were pretty quiet so I took a nap and played with the kids a little more.

Once the morning prayers, lunch, and afternoon social scene are all done, Tabaski is pretty much finished. So we had a pretty low-key meal in the evening and then made a fire and sat around that for a while. My dad and I made some rounds in the village visiting some compounds and saying hi to people, and then I hit the hay because I had to make the trek into Kedougou the next day.



Malinke Lesson of the Day

When a baby is born in Malinké culture, it does not receive a name until its baptism a week later. My sister just had a baby and all week we had to call it "Kéékuta" which means "New boy" because he didn't have a name. ps. African babies are tiiiiiny.


Ok, so that's all I'm writing for now. I have lots of little ideas for stories that I keep in my book, but I don't want to overwhelm anybody, so we'll leave it there for now.

Keep the letters, emails, and blog comments comin'

Love Boubs


7 comments:

betsy said...

Hi Andy,
I love the photo. You make
it seem like we are almost there.
I love hearing about your days.
And the food, customs,
and the unusual things that
occur, that really are not all
that unusual. People are people,
no matter where they live, or
what there customs are.
You talked about your dad and your
sister, can you tell us more about
your family. Take care,
Love,
Betsy

FUNK said...

yo yo dude i hope you had a good x mas and all the drunken calls didnt keep you up to late. the party was good this year but wasent the same with out you miss ya man. dude dont be gay cereal

nicolay said...

Andy! we missed you this year, but it sounds like you are having an amazing experience! Keep the blogs coming.
Peace--
nicolay

Joe Cure said...

"I am reminded ... that Africa isn't an entirely different world. No matter where you are, a man walking naked down the road is weird."

That's hilarious and somewhat disappointing to learn. Thanks for the birthday wishes

Michelle said...

Andy-
It was great to talk to you last week and i can't wait until you get back into service to talk to you again. Missed skiing with you this Christmas but i was glad to hear about your vivid dreams about snow! i have told lots of people about the wandering man - unsual things can happen just about any where huh?

I love to share the stories with people here in MT, the biggest thing i can't get over is picturing you in such warm weather and then here shoveling snow and bundling up!

Miss you tons, Oh and i want to hear more about your family too!, Love, Big Mic

Colleen said...

Andy,
Sounds like you are really getting into the customs/culture of your community. Tell us more about your sister and the baby. How tiny? Was he born at home, with help from Grandma or someone else in the village? What other customs- besides the naming a week later do they have?
Take care,
Colleen

Unknown said...

Andy,
Like Michelle, I have also told the "naked man" story to lots of people and everyone always laughs. I have finally recovered from mono and am now just trying to enjoy the last few days of winter break before returning to Boston. The one good thing about school starting, is that that same day you head into Kedougou...i'm excited to talk!
Love, Nikki
oh, and Mom and I had coffee with Anne Crowningshield today and we will soon be printing out your blog for her to read--she was excited to read it!